Savannakhet, Laos - Things to Do in Savannakhet

Things to Do in Savannakhet

Savannakhet, Laos - Complete Travel Guide

Savannakhet stretches along the Mekong's left bank in southern Laos, directly across from Mukdahan in Thailand. The city carries an official name, Kaysone Phomvihane, that nobody uses outside government offices. Its colonial past shows more openly here than almost anywhere else in Laos. Crumbling French shophouses with peeling ochre facades line tree-shaded avenues. Wooden shutters hang at angles suggesting decades of benign neglect. At the center sits Talat Yen Plaza. St. Theresa's Co-Cathedral rises above low rooflines in creamy white. Come evening, charcoal smoke from the night market drifts across the square. The pace here is slower than Vientiane's. It is quieter than Luang Prabang's tourist circuit. You might walk the old quarter in an hour without seeing another foreigner. Monks in saffron robes sweep the steps of Wat Xayaphoum. School children in white shirts cycle past the old governor's residence. The air stays thick and warm most of the year. Tropical-savanna heat softens only in December and January. Cool evenings then bring locals to the Mekong promenade with plastic stools and large bottles of Beerlao. What keeps Savannakhet interesting is its layered oddness. It has Laos's only dinosaur museum. Two rooms hold Cretaceous fossils and fairy-light outlines. A sacred stupa northeast of town still asks women to wear a traditional sinh before entering. A protected forest has supplied villagers with medicinal plants for four hundred years. A floating restaurant on a Mekong pontoon serves "medium spicy" laab that will rearrange your understanding of medium. Savannakhet is not trying to impress anyone. That is precisely what makes it worth the detour.

Top Things to Do in Savannakhet

Savannakhet's French Colonial Quarter

The old town's grid of avenues radiates from Talat Yen Plaza. It preserves one of the finest colonial townscapes in Indochina. Art Deco facades, Sino-Portuguese shophouses, and the octagonal tower of St. Theresa's Co-Cathedral all sit within a fifteen-minute walk. Peeling pastel plaster and arched wooden shutters give the quarter its texture. The repurposed Lao Chaleun Theatre, a 1930s cinema, now is a community square. Weekend live music and street art fill the space. The feel is more Pondicherry than Southeast Asia. The tourist office organizes a heritage circuit past nineteen points of interest. Or grab a free map from Lin's Cafe, a hundred meters north of the plaza. Set your own pace through a morning walk. Early starts beat the heat. The golden light on shophouse facades before nine is worth the alarm. Tour operators list guided versions under Savannakhet walking tours.

The Dinosaur Museum

Savannakhet's dinosaur museum sits in a slightly dilapidated building on Khantabouli Road. It is the only one in Laos. Its charm comes from eccentricity, not polish. The star exhibit is Tangvayosaurus hoffeti. This fifteen-meter sauropod from the Cretaceous period is outlined on the wall in fairy lights. Casts of its bones hang in anatomical position. Staff have been known to let visitors hold real fossil fragments with bare hands. The second room doubles as a working office. Dried limes and a water heater sit on the desk. Budget about thirty minutes. Bring patience with the labels. They are in French and Lao with limited English. The museum opens in the morning. It closes for a midday break. It reopens in the afternoon. Plan accordingly. Operators in town sometimes package it with other sights under Savannakhet tours.

That Ing Hang Stupa

This Lane Xang-style stupa rises nine meters above manicured gardens roughly fifteen kilometers northeast of town. It is the second-holiest religious site in southern Laos after Wat Phu in Champasak. King Setthathirath substantially rebuilt it in the sixteenth century. The site is believed to enshrine a relic of the Buddha. The French restored it again in 1930. Three terraced bases support the spire. A gold umbrella weighing roughly 450 grams crowns the top. A hollow lower chamber houses rows of Buddha images. Entry to that chamber is restricted to men. Women are asked to wear a sinh on the temple grounds. Hire a tuk-tuk for the round trip. Negotiate the fare before you climb in. Drivers at the stand near the market know tourists have few alternatives. Outfitters group the stupa with other sites under Savannakhet cultural tours.

Dong Natad Forest

This provincial protected area sits about fifteen kilometers east of the city center. It has been sacred forest for roughly four hundred years. Two villages inside it, Ban Tat and Ban Phonsim, still gather mushrooms, honey, resins, and medicinal herbs under its canopy. Day treks run five to six hours through semi-evergreen forest to Nong Lom Lake. Guides point out edible plants and torch trees along the way. The walk finishes with a lakeside lunch. The air smells of damp earth and leaf litter. The Savannakhet Eco-guide Association runs four different programs. Options range from a single-day "Honey Trail" to a two-day homestay. The longer stay includes a traditional baci ceremony and dawn alms-giving. It is worth it if you want to sleep in a village rather than a guesthouse. November through February is the best window. Trails are dry then. The forest canopy filters cool morning light. These programs run under Savannakhet day trips.

Wat Xayaphoum and the Mekong Promenade

Founded in 1542, Savannakhet's oldest monastery sits right on the Mekong bank. Its entrance steps flanked by green naga statues. Its triangular gold roof catches the late-afternoon light. Inside, murals depicting Jataka tales line the ordination hall. On the grounds you can watch villagers crafting new Buddha images by hand. The smell of incense and the quiet tap of chisels make this one of the more meditative temple visits in southern Laos. Across the road, a massive white-and-gold naga statue arches over the riverside promenade. Pop-up drink stalls and community aerobics sessions take over at sunset. Stay for the night market behind the Lao Chaleun Theatre. Grilled meat on skewers, sugar-glazed pancakes, and neon-lit stalls run until around ten. The evening covers the ground that Savannakhet food tours promise. You get the added advantage of wandering at your own pace.

Getting There

Most travelers reach Savannakhet overland. From Vientiane, buses depart the southern terminal throughout the morning, the first around six. The ride south on Route 13 takes eight to nine hours through flat lowland scenery. Rice paddies stretch to the horizon on both sides. A VIP sleeper bus departs in the evening and arrives by early morning. This saves a night's accommodation if you can sleep through the bumps. From Pakse to the south, the journey is about five hours. Connections run to Thakhek in two to three. The faster and more interesting route comes from Thailand. The Second Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge connects Mukdahan to Savannakhet across the Mekong. This 1.6-kilometer span takes about two minutes by shuttle bus. International buses run roughly every hour from early morning until late afternoon. The full crossing including immigration takes about an hour. Walking and private vehicles are not permitted on the bridge. Visa on arrival is available for most nationalities on the Lao side. Bring a passport photo and exact change in cash. The counter does not always have bills to break. Lao Airlines flies between Vientiane and Savannakhet several times a week. The flight takes just under an hour. This puts the nine-hour bus ride in perspective. From the east, buses run to the Vietnamese border at Lao Bao and onward to Dong Ha and Hue. Savannakhet makes a natural midpoint on an Indochina overland route.

Getting Around

Savannakhet's center is compact enough that walking is the most natural way to move through it. You can cross the old quarter end to end in about thirty minutes. There is no real reason to take transport within the colonial core. Not unless it is April and the heat has beaten you into submission. For anything beyond walking distance, That Ing Hang, Dong Natad, Bungva Lake, bicycles are the cheapest option. Several guesthouses and cafes rent them for next to nothing per day. The flat terrain around Savannakhet makes cycling easy even in the warmth. Inspect the brakes and tires before you ride out. Quality is uneven. A flat fifteen kilometers from town is not how you want to spend an afternoon. Tuk-tuks exist but are not as plentiful as in Vientiane or Luang Prabang. They tend to cluster at the bus station, the Royal Thai Consulate, and the market. They do not cruise for fares. Agree on the price before climbing in. Break large bills in advance. Drivers seldom carry change. A round trip to That Ing Hang by tuk-tuk is a reasonable half-day expense. This suits those who prefer not to cycle in the midday sun. Motorbike rental is available at a few guesthouses. Finding a reliably maintained bike takes some asking around. The roads outside the city center are often poorly surfaced. Keep a motorbike for town errands or the Xe Champhone loop. Avoid improvised back-road adventures unless you know what you are doing on loose gravel.

Where to Stay

Talat Yen Plaza and the Old Quarter is where most travelers end up. For good reason. Colonial shophouses line the surrounding streets. You are within a minute's walk of the night market, St. Theresa's, and Lin's Cafe. Guesthouses here tend to occupy restored colonial buildings with high ceilings and wooden floors. Atmospheric but not always modern. Choose this area if you want to feel the old-town character from your doorstep.

The Mekong Riverfront runs along the western edge of the old town. The handful of places here trade colonial charm for sunset views. The promenade is right outside. You can watch the sky turn copper over Mukdahan from a riverside terrace. Daosavanh Resort and Spa sits along this stretch. This is probably the closest thing Savannakhet has to a proper upscale hotel. It has a swimming pool and river-facing rooms. The location is a short walk south of the main cluster.

Khantabouli Road and Ban Chomkeo form the backpacker corridor. Pilgrim's Kitchen and Inn anchors this stretch. Its wooden terrace sits on the Mekong bank. Le Corbeau Bar occupies an old colonial mansion nearby. The feel here is more social. Travelers swap routes over iced coffee. This differs from the quieter streets around Talat Yen.

Sisavangvong Road near the bus station and Royal Thai Consulate is where newer mid-range hotels have appeared. The architecture is modern. The rooms tend to have stronger air conditioning and more reliable plumbing than the colonial conversions. The trade-off is a ten-minute walk from the old quarter. The surroundings are functional rather than scenic.

Tha Hae Road, Savannakhet's oldest thoroughfare named after the original settlement on the Mekong, runs south along the river. It holds a mix of guesthouses and small hotels. The pace is quieter than the old quarter. A few of the better-value budget stays sit along this road. Nongsoda Guesthouse, next to Wat Xayaphoum, puts you right beside the temple.

Route 9 and the modern edge of town stretch east of the colonial core. Accommodation here skews toward the casino-hotel complex catering to Thai visitors and a scattering of business-style properties. Unless you have a specific reason to be out here, an early morning border crossing, perhaps, the old quarter is a better base. Skip this sprawl.

Food & Dining

Savannakhet's food scene runs on two tracks: Lao-French colonial fusion and straightforward Mekong River cooking, with a handful of international options filling the gaps. Daosavanh Restaurant, on Latsavongseuk Road in the old plaza, is widely considered the best French restaurant in southern Laos, an assessment that sounds dramatic until you sit upstairs in the colonial dining room and order a three-course menu du dejeuner that costs less than a sandwich in Bangkok. Downstairs operates as an all-day cafe with croque-monsieurs, fresh salads, and cold Beerlao. The quality-to-price ratio is disorienting. Go. For Lao food at its spiciest, Numphu, close to the central guesthouse cluster, serves beef-and-chilli stir-fries and shrimp plates that have made seasoned travelers reconsider their spice tolerance. The menu is in Lao only, the decor leans toward flashing lights and western-music posters, and the large wooden balcony fills with locals who handle the heat with conspicuously more ease than you will. A similar warning applies to Savan Lao Derm, Savannakhet's only floating restaurant, built on a Mekong pontoon partly of driftwood, with tamarind-sauced deep-fried fish and laab salad studded with red ant eggs. The views across to Thailand at sunset justify the trip alone. But order mild unless you mean it. Trust me. Lin's Cafe, at the northeast corner of Talat Yen, doubles as the town's unofficial tourist office and serves an enormous menu that includes everything from papaya salad and green curry to pizza and homemade chocolate cake. The Teh Lieng, a local tea unique to Savannakhet with smoky, citrus notes, is worth trying here. Pilgrim's Kitchen and Inn, on Khantabouli Road near the Mekong, fills the Indian-food gap that most Lao cities leave open: chicken thali sets with rice, dahl, flatbread, pickles, and curry, served on a wooden terrace above the brown river. Breakfast at Cafe Chez Boune, on Chaimeuang Road near the main square, leans French, cheese-and-ham omelettes with crusty homemade bread in a handsome wood-decked dining room that smells of fresh coffee and butter. The night market on Talat Yen Plaza is where Savannakhet eats cheaply and well. Charcoal-grilled chicken, Lao sausages, egg-covered sticky rice, tangy som tam, and noodle soups in every configuration line the stalls from sundown until about ten, with the sizzle and smoke of open grills hanging in the warm air. For something quieter, Laochaleun Bar on the corner of the square overlooks the market from an open courtyard, order a couple of stir-fries with basil and chilli, a large Beerlao, and watch the neon glow from your table. Budget eaters do well at Mae Buom Ban, a family-run stall doing pate-stuffed baguettes in the French colonial tradition for a pittance.

When to Visit

Savannakhet's climate splits into three seasons, and the differences are not subtle. The cool dry months from November through February are the obvious sweet spot. Daytime temperatures hover in the high twenties to low thirties Celsius, nights drop to the mid-teens, and rain is almost nonexistent. December and January might see one or two wet days total. The air feels light rather than oppressive, evenings along the Mekong are pleasant without the sticky film that coats everything the rest of the year, and this is when the That Ing Hang Festival draws pilgrims from across Laos and Thailand for ceremonies around the full moon. Book early. March and April are the hot season, and Savannakhet takes the heat seriously. Highs push into the mid-thirties, humidity climbs, and by mid-afternoon the colonial quarter empties as everyone retreats behind shutters or into air-conditioned cafes. If you can tolerate the swelter, though, you will have the sights largely to yourself, since few travelers come through during these months. April's Lao New Year, Pi Mai, brings water-throwing festivities and a burst of life to the otherwise drowsy streets. The monsoon arrives in May and does not let up until October. August is the wettest month, with rain falling on roughly two out of every three days. Downpours tend to be heavy but short, a forty-minute deluge followed by steaming pavement and an hour of dripping eaves, so the city does not shut down entirely. Unpaved roads to outlying sites like Dong Natad become muddy, though, and treks are less comfortable. The Mekong swells and turns a silty brown, and humidity hovers near saturation. That said, the landscape is at its greenest, and Savannakhet in the wet season has a moody, photogenic quality if you do not mind getting caught in a downpour now and then. Pack rain gear.

Insider Tips

The Bored Room, on Makaveha Road, is not a bar or a cafe. It is a small movie theater run by a long-term expat named Dave who screens films on a projector on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings with popcorn and beer. He also rents bicycles and runs a book exchange, and his knowledge of the area runs deeper than most guidebooks will give you. It is one of those places you hear about from other travelers at the guesthouse, and it is worth tracking down. Find it.
Savannakhet straddles a natural overland corridor between Thailand and Vietnam. Most travelers pass through. Stay two or three nights instead. Use the city as a base. Spend one day on the old quarter and riverfront. Another day covers the Dong Natad trek plus That Ing Hang. Reserve the third for the Xe Champhone loop. This motorbike circuit cuts through wetlands, the Sacred Monkey Forest, Turtle Lake, and the Hotay Pidok library. That library holds four thousand palm-leaf manuscripts in ancient Lao, Burmese Pali, and Khmer. The loop is Savannakhet Province's quieter answer to the Thakhek Loop. Fewer crowds. Same payoff.
Crossing from Mukdahan? Bring passport photos and small bills. The visa-on-arrival counter on the Lao side often lacks change. Hand over a large note and they may round up. Break your bills at a Thai convenience store before the bridge shuttle. Fill out the Laos Digital Immigration Form online beforehand. Skip the delays at the window.

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